Dunwich

(image courtesy of Sylvia Speak robsyl87@tiscali.co.uk)

Dunwich
It’s hard to believe that the sleepy village of Dunwich on the Suffolk coast was once a bustling city with a population of 4,000. However, at one time, it was the unofficial capital of East Anglia, and a bustling seaport with eight churches, five houses of religious order, and major trading including the export of wool and grain, and the import of fish, fir, and timber.

It also played a major role in 11th and 12th century. By 1086, just twelve years after the Norman Conquest, Dunwich was thriving, and just under a hundred years later, in 1173, Robert, Earl of Leicester, attempted to land 3,000 Flemish troops at Dunwich in an attempt to overthrown and depose Henry II and replace him with his son. His plot was delayed by the loyal residents of Dunwich, who turned the boats away when they arrived and tried to disembark. Because of this, the Earl of Leicester was forced to set sail again, finally landing at Orwell, a now long gone port east of Harwich. In appreciation of their actions, Dunwich was granted a royal charter in 1199, becoming a borough and gaining a council, magistrates, and officers.

It may have still been a much larger town, possibly even a city, if it hadn't been for several severe foods in the 13th and 14th centuries, which destroyed several of the churches and reclaimed portions of the land. Its proximity to the coast worked against it as well, and the sea ate away at it, leading to its almost complete abandonment by the 19th century. Due to its charter, Dunwich was still represented by two MPs, making it for a while one of the infamous 'Rotten Boroughs'. There are still clear reminders of its heyday, including the ruins of a Franciscan priory,


while the natural splendour of Dunwich Heath is still intact (see
Walberswick Nature reserve for more information about these areas)

Settled between Walberswick and Southwold, Dunwich is a perfect location to launch a birdwatching expedition, as it is nearby to the birdwatching areas of Dunwich Heath (see below)


and Minsmere. If you're out for a day at the coast with the family and pets, there are several Dog Friendly Beaches in the area, a gorgeous Coastal Path walk running parrell to the coast which runs for about 3 miles from Dunwich to Walberswick.

Dogs are allowed on this path throughout the year, but must be kept on a lead as it's part of a nature reserve - see
Walberswick Nature reserve.
After all that exercise you'll need somewhere to recuperate and what better place than The Ship, which also provides accommodation for those too tired to leave. Colin, the chef, has been at The Ship for 17 years now, and is justly famous for his fish and chips - but there's plenty more to enjoy on The Ship's menu: steak and ale pie, lamb, pea and mint casserole, bread and butter pudding, chocolate roly poly and much more which are all accompanied by good wines at sensible prices, or proper beers and ales - including Adnams and a range of guest ales.

The Ship is also ideally located to use as a base to explore this lovely area of the Suffolk Coast.


(image courtesy of Sylvia Speak robsyl87@tiscali.co.uk)





